A New Era for London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week has entered a transformative phase, marked by fresh energy and bold creative visions. Under the leadership of new British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir, the event has taken on a renewed purpose, emphasizing the importance of fashion as a cultural force. Weir’s vision is clear: to make London a global hub for creative design talent. This ambition includes opening up the schedule to more diverse brands, international editors, and buyers, aiming to elevate the city’s status on the world stage.
The shift in focus has already begun to show results. The UK government recently held discussions about the national significance of London Fashion Week, highlighting its growing influence. Weir emphasized that the industry must be respected for its contributions to the UK economy and culture. “The world is watching this week. Let us show them what only London can do,” she said during her opening speech.
Blockbuster Moments and Emerging Talent
This season saw some standout moments from both established and emerging designers. Burberry closed out the week with a star-studded show at Kensington Palace Gardens, featuring celebrities like Elton John, Olivia Dean, and Vanessa Williams. H&M also made a strong entrance with a celebrity-filled catwalk featuring Romeo Beckham and a performance from singer Lola Young.
Smaller designers also made waves, celebrating milestones such as anniversaries of Roksanda, Harris Reed, Ashish, and Fashion East. Newcomers like Oscar Ouyang, Maximilian Raynor, and Johanna Parv brought fresh ideas and innovation to the runway.
Reimagining British Identity
Designers explored themes of British identity, blending traditional elements with modern interpretations. Patrick McDowell, a Liverpudlian designer based in London, presented his first catwalk since winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design. His collection, titled “Lancashire Rose,” featured cinched blazers and sandy-colored trench coats reimagined into strapless tops and full skirts. Daniel Fletcher, who designs for his namesake label and the Chinese brand Mithridate, drew inspiration from British archetypes—country folk and town dwellers—creating a fusion of these worlds in pink sequined party dresses and Oxford shirts paired with sparkly underwear.
American Inspirations and Global Influences
While many designers focused on British heritage, others looked across the Atlantic for inspiration. Yuhan Wang was inspired by David Lynch’s film Mulholland Drive, incorporating elements of the film’s fictional diner into T-shirts. The cult British-Bulgarian brand Chopova Lowena created an entire cheer squad look with tinsel hair extensions and rhinestone eyeliner. Their collection included letterman jackets, T-shirts with “Popular” in varsity typeface, and knitted hoodies with pom-pom motifs, accompanied by a performance of AC/DC’s “Thunderstruck.”
Redefining Streetwear
Streetwear, a staple of UK fashion, was reimagined by several designers. Yaku Stapleton, founder of YAKU, designed hoodies, capes, and camouflage pants inspired by role-playing games (RPG). His models resembled characters from games like Zelda, with cargo pants holding axes and sword sheaths made from fabric. Marie Lueder’s take on modern medieval feudalism featured knitted hoods and 3D-printed horned clogs, inspired by the historical summer camps she attended as a child.
Urban Wear and Functionality
Johanna Parv continued her mission to create urban clothes that balance form and function. Her designs catered to “the woman who is living in the city right now,” particularly brave cyclists. She introduced nylon dresses, skirts, and rain jackets that could be adjusted for commuting, working, partying, or exercising.
Voluminous Hips and Historical Inspiration
Voluminous hips were a recurring theme at the event, influenced by the recent exhibition on Marie Antoinette’s style in London. Panniers, undergarments that expand the silhouette, were seen on red carpets, including a Dior haute couture gown worn by Italian actor Alba Rohrwacher at the Venice Film Festival.
Simone Rocha’s collection featured wired crinoline skirts visible through sheer fabric, inspired by a “disgruntled debutante.” Dilara Findikoglu’s show featured horse-bit headpieces and metal face coverings, symbolizing silenced women in history. Her collection, titled “Cage of Innocence,” highlighted the tension between purity and prison for women.
Experimentation and Craftsmanship
Many designers embraced experimentation and traditional craftsmanship. Oscar Ouyang, known for his bird feather experiments, used machine and hand-knit techniques to create cartoon-sh proportioned T-shirts and braided bags. Pauline Dujancourt, a womenswear designer specializing in knitwear, combined chunky Argyle knit, delicate lace, and frothy tulle ruffles. She emphasized the importance of craft, modernizing the artform for new generations.
Sustainability and Innovation
Sustainability was another key theme. Paolo Carzana used repurposed materials and vegetable dyes, creating unexpected color pairings like violet with burnt orange. Susan Fang showcased dresses made using beads and 3D-printed patchwork that resembled flower petals. Her show took place in the leafy conservatory of the Barbican, adding a natural aesthetic to her designs.
Bold Statements and Inclusivity
Conner Ives continued to make bold statements, focusing on inclusivity and representation. His show featured trans women cast on the street, reflecting his commitment to diversity. He emphasized the importance of “employing the dolls” and “championing the dolls,” referencing his viral T-shirt from the previous season.
A Celebration of Creativity
As London Fashion Week concluded, it was clear that the event had embraced a new era of creativity, inclusivity, and innovation. From groundbreaking designs to sustainable practices, the week celebrated the diverse talents shaping the future of fashion. As one designer put it, “At the end of the day we’re here to reinvent fashion and try new things.”
