A Bold New Era for Versace
Versace, one of the most iconic names in fashion, has entered a new chapter under the creative direction of Dario Vitale. The Italian designer, who previously served as design director at Miu Miu, has taken on the role of chief creative officer for the storied brand, marking a significant shift in its artistic identity.
The Debut Show: A Statement of Freedom and Expression
Vitale’s first collection for Versace was unveiled during Milan Fashion Week, drawing widespread attention from industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts alike. The event, initially planned as an intimate gathering, transformed into a grand spectacle that attracted high-profile guests such as Bianca Jagger, Mia Khalifa, Romeo Beckham, and South Korean rapper Hyunjin. The venue, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, added an air of sophistication to the occasion, with its rich history and artistic legacy providing a fitting backdrop for the new designs.
The show featured a mix of bold colors, striking patterns, and a strong emphasis on freedom of expression. Models walked the runway in outfits that exuded confidence and sensuality, with elements like gaping vest tops, striped trousers, and shimmery gowns capturing the essence of the 1980s while maintaining a modern edge. The soundtrack, featuring hits by Prince, George Michael, and the Eurythmics, further enhanced the energetic atmosphere.
Reinterpreting Versace’s Legacy
Vitale’s approach to the brand’s heritage was both respectful and innovative. He emphasized the emotional connection to Versace’s roots, drawing parallels between the brand and cultural icons like Coca-Cola. His goal was to capture the spirit of Gianni Versace, rather than simply replicating past designs. This philosophy is evident in the collection, which includes signature motifs such as the Medusa symbol and checkerboard prints, but with a fresh, contemporary twist.
One of the standout elements of the collection was the return of shirts, a key part of Versace’s heritage. The design showcased various interpretations of this staple piece, including the iconic striped shirt worn by Julia Roberts and Amanda Seyfried at the Venice Film Festival. Vitale described this look as “really me,” highlighting his personal connection to the brand’s history.
Layering and Sexuality in Fashion
Layering played a significant role in the collection, with models wearing T-shirts under shirts and jackets, creating a dynamic and textured look. Vitale himself embraced this style, wearing a sporty T-shirt underneath a blue shirt and a caramel-colored leather jacket. He explained that layering is not just about aesthetics but also about expressing individuality and control. “It’s almost like an attitude, of being in control,” he said, emphasizing the empowering aspect of the designs.
The collection also introduced beaded shimmery dresses and sportswear-inspired pieces, reflecting a blend of luxury and casual wear. This approach aligns with the current trend of incorporating more vibrant and expressive elements into everyday fashion.
A New Direction for Italian Fashion
Vitale’s debut marks a departure from the neutral shades and soft tailoring that have dominated recent Milan runways. Instead, the collection embraces boldness and vibrancy, signaling a shift towards more daring and colorful designs. This trend is echoed in other collections from the same season, such as Prada’s Spring-Summer 2026 line, which features acidic colors like neon orange, pink, and green.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, Versace under Vitale’s leadership is poised to redefine what it means to be bold, unapologetic, and free-spirited in style. The new collection not only honors the brand’s legacy but also sets the stage for a future filled with creativity and innovation.
